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Mountaineers Books Early Spring 2017

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Legends and Lore
The Bond
Survival on Denali and Mount Huntington
By (author): Simon McCartney
9781680510904 Paperback, Trade English SPORTS & RECREATION / Mountaineering Nov 01, 2016
$31.95 CAD
Active 9.05 x 9.06 x 0.94 in 304 pages 16-page color and B&W insert The Mountaineers Books Mountaineers Books
Friendship, sacrifice, and a fight for survival on the two most dangerous mountains in North America - A story that has gone untold for 40 years, until now - Two daring first ascents that have been the subject of controversy - Newest addition to the critically-acclaimed "Legends and Lore" series In 1977, Jack Roberts, a California "Stone Master" and experienced young alpinist, met Simon McCartney, a highly motivated 22-year-old Brit who had cut his teeth climbing in Europe with some of the most respected mountaineers of the time. Over the next three years, the pair enjoyed a magical partnership during which they completed two of the boldest and most audacious climbs in the history of Alaskan alpinism. Then McCartney disappeared from the climbing scene entirely, emerging now nearly 40 years later to tell the story. The north face of Mount Huntington is one of the most dangerous walls in the Alaska Range, and Denali's southwest face is one of the largest and most technically difficult. Roberts and McCartney made the first ascents of both, eschewing any notion of fixed ropes or siege tactics. With success as their only option, they got themselves to the foot of these faces with the bare minimum of gear and simply started climbing. The ascent of Mount Huntington's North Face was made in the summer of 1978; Denali Southwest Face, in 1980. These two legendary climbs created a stir at the time, and a flurry of controversy and criticism followed the Denali climb. Years later, some people went so far as to suggest that the Huntington climb was a fake. Sadly, Jack Roberts passed away in XXXX without the story of his feats every being told, until now. The Bond, told primarily via McCartney's first-person narrative plus extracts from the diaries of Roberts' and others, shares for the first time the experience of these two challenging climbs-and the strong bond forged between the two climbers. It is, in short, the essence of a good climbing yarn, and the stuff of Legends and Lore.

Simon McCartney was introduced to the mountains of the United Kingdom by his father, becoming a full time climber before his 19th birthday. Now a successful businessman living in Hong Kong, McCartney's dubious talent in calculated but compulsive risk-taking has continued, albeit on some of Southeast Asia's most prestigious buildings rather than the highest mountains in Alaska. A chance reconnection with the adventures of his youth reminded McCartney that while the strength of old climbing ropes fades, the bond between old climbers only gets stronger.

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